Grapes can be a difficult item for dogs to digest, and can cause vomiting and diarrhea in some cases. If your dog is having trouble digesting grapes, there are a few things you can do to help.
I love making my own wine from grapes at home with them; it feels like magic turning the fruit into a delectable wine.Introduction: How to Make Your Own Wine From Grapes at HomeWe are fortunate enough to have a beautiful grape vine that gifts us with kilos of grapes every year.Friends I have given the wine to have told me it tastes excellent. I used the wonderful Hedgerow Wine Kit from Better Brew which contains everything you need, ready measured out (apart from the fruit and sugar!). Homemade wine makes a wonderful gift, particularly if it tastes surprisingly good.You can purchase it here on Amazon: https://amzn.to/2ZuMitm. There is no need to worry about it going bad because everything is sealed in individual packets.I am using grapes, but the kit includes recipes for other fruits as well, so I'll list the alternatives in case you don't have one of these.
All of the bottles and homebrew kit were reused for this instructable and will be reused again; using homegrown grapes gives homemade wine a much better environmental profile and carbon footprint than drinking imported wine.
This recipe yielded 26 bottles of beautiful rosé, as evidenced by the photos.
Preparation time: 9 hours (3 hours for grapes, 3 hours for processing, 3 hours for bottles and bottling).
Step 1: When Are the Grapes Ready to Make Wine?
When the grapes are ripe but not overly sweet, they are ready to be used to make homemade wine. If the grapes taste bitter, they are not yet ready.You can judge the sugar level by taste, but I prefer to use a hydrometer to measure the density (covered later in the Instructable). You want the starting specific gravity (SG) between 1.070 and 1.100, so the grapes need to be close to this range.The SG will rise once the sugar is added; mine was 1.062.The measurements are in relation to water, which has an SG of 1.000; sugar is denser than water, and alcohol is lighter.The density at the end of fermentation was 0.990, and this indicates that you can determine the alcohol content by measuring the density at the beginning, after the addition of sugar, and at the end of fermentation.Using one of the many online calculators available (search "wine alcohol calculator" on Google), I determined my wine's alcohol content to be 9.8, which I am happy with because it tastes great; you can increase the alcohol content if you prefer by adding more sugar.
There is a lot written on the internet about how to tell when grapes are ready, and they all say different things! I would recommend reading around it and doing what feels right for you.
Wash your hands thoroughly, twice, up to your elbows, before handling any grapes or equipment that will come into contact with them, and again if you touch anything else; door handles/kettle/dog, for example.(I end up washing my hands about 20 times a day when I follow this process.)
Step 2: Sterilise the Bucket
My bucket had been sitting in the shed since last year, so it needed a good scrub with hot soapy water; even if it's brand new, I'd wash and rinse it thoroughly to remove any factory or transit residue.Campden tablets are great for sterilisation as they are flavourless and odourless so won't affect the quality of the wine. Follow the instructions on your tablets to get the strength right; it is usually 16 tablets per gallon/4.5l.
Crush/dissolve the tablets in a gallon of water and add to the bucket; cover and shake for 30 seconds before leaving for 20 minutes.Drain, there is no need to rinse.
Step 3: Processing the Grapes
The difference between a good wine and a cheap wine is due in part to how the grapes are processed. Vineyards producing cheap wine strip the vines and throw everything in.Moudly grapes, stems, spiders and all. This can lead to bitter wineTo get a clean finish, sort the grapes, remove the mouldy ones, and wash them before crushing and dumping them in the bucket.
Fill a large pan halfway with tap water and add the grapes, pulling them from the stalks as you go, inspecting them as you go.10kg of grapes is about 2000 grapes so this stage can be time consuming; don't worry about getting every rotten one out, it doesn't matter that much. I found that when stripping the grapes off I could feel from the texture whether they were squishy; this was much quicker and more reliable than a visual inspection
Weigh the grapes to ensure they are close to 10kg; don't worry if they are slightly less or more.
Crush the grapes in your hand over the barrel to allow the juice to enter, then drop the squished grapes in; I've found that as long as the grapes are burst, they impart color and flavor to the wine without having to be fully juiced.Put the skins in too, these add a lot of colour and flavour.
Step 4: Add Boiling Water
Bring 10 litres of water to a boil and pour it over the grapes; this kills germs and appears to slightly cook them, which aids in the release of color and flavor.I also added 5 campden tablets dissolved in some of the boiling water; this can help kill any germs that are left on the grapes. This isn't essential but minimises the risk of spoilage
Step 5: Clean and Sterilize Your Stirrer
Wash your hands before handling the stirrer and bring both ends of your stirrer to a boil.You can leave the stirrer in the bucket but I tend to remove and resterilise.
Step 6: Add the Sugar
The recipe calls for 4.5kg of sugar, which sounded like a lot to me, and I didn't want to risk making a sweet wine, so I only used 4.1kg.Adding the full amount would likely have increased the alcohol content. Stir again until dissolved.
Step 7: Add Pectolase
If using the Hedgerow Wine Kit, add sachet 1e; otherwise, add 1g pectolase.Stir, put lid on.
Step 8: Insert the airlock and fill with cold water.
Boil the airlock for a couple of minutes, getting some of the boiling water to run through the lock. Remove with tongs or a spoon, leave a small amount of boiled water in it and stick in the hole in your bucket, leave for 3 hours then top up to 23 litres with cold water.
The instructions with the bucket said to leave the edge of the bucket lid lifted to let the CO2 out instead of using an airlock but I was worried about backflow and contamination so I drilled a hole and added a rubber gasket so I could use an airlock. My friend Mike said that his elferflower brew used to ferment so violently it would blow all the water out of the airlock but I haven't had this happen with grape wine.
Step 9: Clear Up Some Mess
There will be a lot of mess if you haven't cleared up yet. This is a great time to do some tidying up.
Step 10: Add Yeast, Citric Acid and Bentonite, Leave to Ferment
If you have a Hedgerow Wine Kit add sachets 1, 1c and 1d when the temperature has dropped to at least 30 degrees centigrade. If you don't have one, add 1 sachet/5g yeast (turns the sugar to alcohol), 5 tsps citric acid (increases bright fruit acid flavour) and 2 tsps bentonite (clarification, stabilisation)Reseal the lid and make sure the airlock is well sealed and half full of water.
Leave to ferment for about two weeks at room temperature or slightly above, or until it almost stops bubbling. Stir with a sterilised stirrer and leave until it stops bubbling again.
Step 11: Strain the Fruit Off
Previously I have used demijohns but they are hard to clean so I thought I would try using another bucket this time and it worked really well. Use a sterilised jug to pour the mixture through a sterilised fruit net into a washed and sterilised bucket, according to the previous methodYou don't want to waste any of the precious liquid, so press the net against the side of the bucket to squeeze all the juice from the solids!
Step 12: Add Sachet 2, Stabiliser
Some methods advise stirring or shaking the CO2 out of the wine at this stage, while others advise against it, particularly if you intend to let the wine mature for a while. Add sachet number two or one and a half teaspoons of potassium sorbate and stir with your sterilised stirrer.When the wine is fermented by the yeast, CO2 is added, which raises the acidity because it dissolves as carbonic acid in water.When stirred or shaken, it readily releases the solution into the air, but if you remove all of it, the wine may taste bland.I made the choice to leave mine standing so that the CO2 would slowly release on its own.
Step 13: Add Finings
Add sachet number 3, finings, or isinglass, 28g (one ounce). If you use different finings, follow the instructions suppliedMix thoroughly and set aside for one day.
Step 14: Add Sachet 4
Add sachet 4, finings B and stir carefully for 15 seconds.
Step 15: Allow to mature in the bucket
I left to stand for three weeks at this point before bottling. You could leave it longer if you wanted. It is worth tasting the wine at several points in the process to check all is well. Remove a small amount of wine with a sterilised spoon or cup. Mine tasted too acidic to start with so I left it to stand so the CO2 could leave.
The wine has clearly cleared, and there is a layer of sediment at the bottom.
16th Step: Determine the Specific Density
At some point when fermentation has finished use the hydrometer to check your wine is not too high in sugar and if you want to calculate the alcohol content. The SG should be 1000 or below. Mine is reading 0.990. You can do this by taste if you don't have a hydrometer; check it is dry and not too sweet.
Step 17: The Bottles
Preparing the bottles is almost as much work as preparing the grapes, particularly if you remove the labels. Some bottles are easier to get the labels off than others so it's worth saving up more than you need in case you can't get them off some of them. You might not bother to remove the labels if you are keeping the bottles yourself.
Soak them in hot soapy water and scrape the labels off. Some will peel, other are better scraped off with a knife. You can get the glue off with a plastic pan scourer. Wash out with hot soapy water and rinse with running clean water until you are sure no soap is left. I rinsed each 3 times with clean water. You might need to use a bottle brush if there is residue dried inside the bottle.
Make up a mix of water and Campen tablets as previously mentioned. Top each bottle up to the very top using a jug and leave to stand for 15 minutes. This will sterilise them. Afterwards tip it out, there is no need to rinse.
The Lids and Tubing (Step 18)
People bottle their wine at different times. The most important thing is that fermentation has finished. The simplest sign of this is that the bubbling has stopped. You can bottle your wine soon after this if you wish or leave to mature in the bucket or demijohn. Make sure you don't need to make any adjustments to the acidity, sweetness or anything else before bottling. Mine was quite acidic so I left it to stand so the CO2 could leave.
When you are ready to bottle your wine boil or otherwise sterilise the lids for the bottles which have them. Check none of them are damaged. You will need corks for the others.
You will need some sort of tubing to siphon the wine into the bottles. You can use plain tubing but I invested a few pounds in a brewer's tube which has a filter on one end to help leave the sediment behind and a bulb on the other to start the wine flowing. Give it a good boil for a few minutes.
Step 19: Pour Into Bottles
Position the bucket so it is higher than the bottles. Don't move it unless you have to as this will disturb the sediment. If you do move it, leave it to settle again.
I taped the tube to the inside of the bucket so the end didn't move around and disturb the sediment, also so the tube didn't come out of the bucket.
Siphon the wine into the bottles. Pinch or bend the tube to stop the wine flowing between bottles. Make sure you leave an air gap at the top and space for a cork if it needs one.
Step 20: Cork the Bottles
Screw the caps on tight, being careful not to damage the thread. Bring a pan of water to the boil, turn it off and put the corks on the top, with a lid on, and leave for a few minutes to soften.
Use a bottle corker to push the corks into the bottles. The corker will come with instructions. For this one you put the cork inside it, put the handle in and then push the handle down, pushing the cork into the bottle.
You are done!
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Should I make my dog throw up if he ate a grape?
For this reason, we as veterinarians will always recommend that any dog that has ingested even just one grape should have vomiting induced to rid the stomach of the grape(s) as soon as possible and should immediately be started on supportive care by their veterinarian.any dog that has ingested even just one grape should have vomiting induced to rid the stomach of the grape(s) as soon as possible and should immediately be started on supportive care by their veterinarian.
What do I do if my dog just ate a grape?
What should I do if my dog eats grapes or raisons? If you suspect that your pet has eaten any of these fruits, contact your veterinarian, Pet Poison Helpline or an animal poison control service immediately.contact your veterinarian, Pet Poison Helpline or an animal poison control service immediately.
What if my dog doesn't vomit after eating grapes?
Dogs who have consumed grapes may not immediately exhibit symptoms, so even if your dog appears to be fine, they could be in danger.Your veterinarian might advise you to induce vomiting at home or to go to an emergency facility where they might draw blood or give you intravenous fluids.. Dogs who have eaten grapes may not show symptoms right away, so even if your dog seems fine, they may be in trouble. Your vet may recommend that you induce vomiting at home or urge you to visit an emergency facility where they are likely to do blood work or administer intravenous fluids.
How many grapes can a dog eat before it makes him sick?
An average-sized seedless grape weighs about 0.2 ounces, and consumption of 0.7 oz/kg of grapes and 0.11 oz/kg of raisins has been linked to symptoms of grape toxicity.So, for a 10 kg dog, the toxic dose of grapes would be 7 ounces, or 35 grapes.35 grapes.